Tag Archive: funeral


Hidden in Plain Sight

Looking back at my first few days in rural Zambia, it’s always amazing how many things went unnoticed. The inability to understand the local language is just a single barrier to understanding life in the village. On my first few days in the village I lacked familiarity with unwritten codes, behaviour, and the various people who were coming and going in the village all proved to be a bigger barrier to me truly being aware of my surroundings.

We were out in the field, biking alongside each other on a path that was cutting through prepared fields and forests making our way to the next village. I was again with the agent who was introducing me to many farmers. I wanted to see what value he provides to those in his community. To make sure I could still hear him, I kept my bike close.

Biking with another villager

The day earlier a few men from another village visited ours. In traditional manner they were all seated together and have already been greeted by the elders and village headman. I joined them brushing away the sharp rocks from the ground next to one of the mud huts and sat down. We spoke about farming, Zambia, and how I managed to end up in front of them from Canada and after a few hours of talk they bid us farewell and left. I thought nothing of it. I believed they were another group of well-wishers who came to give their respects and condolences to the agent I was working with who just buried his daughter.

I was told the truth of the meeting while we were biking on that path. “Those men, Anton, they believe that it is unsafe for my wife to be here in our village. They took her back to her home village away from me. But what can I do, I cannot refuse their wishes. I can only keep working.”

He couldn’t see my face behind him, but I could only show shock as I realized how much this man was going through in just the first week I was with him. The loss of his daughter and now the loss of his wife. I could only respond with a “mhmmm really? She is now gone?”. “Yes, they took all her things yesterday”.

It was like hitting a brick wall. He told me then what challenges he was facing day to day. He also, in that same moment, showed me how unaware of them I really was.

It was afternoon. The sun was out of my sight, blocked by the thatched roof of the hut I was seated against. The village was mostly silent. The men were all sitting beside me speaking quietly to each other. The women were seated outside a hut opposite ours. Some were wailing in the distance. I sat there trying to comprehend the scene. In front of me was the son of the agent I was visiting. He’s no more than 3 feet tall and was wearing a little league soccer uniform. Out of my days in the village this was the first time I saw him stand silent. His tears were clearly traced through the dust on his face. I wondered if he just learned that his little sister passed away in the morning.

Throughout my time in Kalanje I kept trying to understand the barriers to business, agriculture and development. My questions were about access to capital, travel times, communication. That day changed the context. My questions were no longer about supply chain or information exchanges surrounding transactions.

I questioned what could have been if there was an infrastructure where a vehicle could easily bring someone to hospital instead of waiting for an NGO off-road vehicle to provide transport. What if travel time to the hospital was minutes instead of hours. What if medications were only 5 km away and not 50 km. What if the local clinic had ample electricity, diagnostic equipment and supplies instead of having to send people into town to receive treatment. What if there was access to information in the village; the ability to realize that the symptoms may have been malaria and not the cause of eating something bad as suggested by the village healer. What would the result be? Would it be that more people would be healthy? Would there be less death? Would it mean that a 7 month old girl would still be alive? Would it mean that a father wouldn’t have to bike 50km to the hospital to see his child? Would it mean the time they have together be extended by minutes, hours, months or years?

The day prior was the sixth day of my stay in Kalanje. That morning I was woken up by the brothers of the agricultural agent I was visiting and researching with. They told just told me, “We received a message that the chap has passed”. What can you say to something like that?

We said all we could say. “How are you this morning?”, “I’m fine thanks, I’ll find you outside”.

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