Tag Archive: market


It was dark. I could barely see the teeth of the man beside me as he smiled. He was generous enough to allow me to sit with him on the plastic bag containing a blanket he just bought at the market in Chipata. It was a God-send. The trip was rough and bumpy. The woman leaning on my back was constantly pushing me forward, as she was being forced to move by the passengers vying for space behind. On my knees was a bucket full of goods that another woman placed there because that was the only spot she could put it.

Offloading passengers and goods en route to Kalanje

All I could see ahead of me were the silhouettes of all the other passengers shaking against the brightly lit trees whipping by. The ride was just… violent. The only things that remained still were the stars above and behind me. I focused on them to avoid pain in my left knee that was being squeezed into an awkward position during the trip. There were no stars ahead of us … the flashes of lightning in the distance revealed why.

Taking a picture during the ride

About an hour earlier I boarded this truck looking for a way back to the village of Kalanje. This was the only local transportation available. As I sat beside the truck and nervously waiting for some sign that this truck was, in fact, the correct one, I began to see familiar faces. The faces that you remember you’ve seen, but can’t really figure out where. It was only when I began to see people smile at me did I start to feel at ease.

“Khusyo! Bwanje?!” (How are you Khusyo?!- my name in the Ngoni Tribe) was shouted by a woman approaching the truck. “Bwino!! Ndi li pita ku munzi Kalanje” (My attempt at saying I’m good!, I’m going to the village of Kalanje). “Cha Bwino!!!” (Very good!!!)

The exchange lighted my mood and made everyone around me seem more comfortable with me, more friendly, and more welcoming. I started to feel that I was heading  back to a home.

Jumping onto a truck to get back to the village

I wanted to go back to reconnect to the village. I’ve been in Lusaka and trying to update my partner organization and my team.  Going back to visit the agent would give me the opportunity to gather information from his records. He has been successful at conducting and growing his business and I needed to see if the agent network can actually have the potential to increase my partner’s market share. I needed sales data and real market surveys. Going back to the village was the only way to get them.

After some time I knew we were getting closer. I could begin to make out the mountain that was just East of the village. Even though the truck was traveling  fast and the roads was dark, I began to remember the turn offs, the paths and the villages we past. We passed through the Village of Pwata, then turned and later passed the village Vuta, and as the truck continued on made a hard left turn and stopped. I knew it was Kalanje. The village was very quiet, and everyone was asleep.

I jumped off and grabbed my bags and took down my bicycle. I stood there alone under the moon light and could see some of the dogs in the distance. I squinted trying to make out the huts of the village. I began to walk towards the mud hut I lived in a month earlier. Then out of the shadows I saw Isreal, who just woke up,  walking towards me with a smile. We shook hands and spoke a bit and then he began to wake up his brothers to greet me. I was home.

After settling into Chipata, I realized that I really love the whole bike culture here. Bicycles are used as taxis, transport for household goods and they are even used to transport items as large as sheets of steel roofing and as heavy as large bags of charcoal. It’s great to be able to walk to the main road, point in any direction and someone with a bike and a padded carrier will swing by and take you wherever you want to go. The price is usually somewhere between 1,000 to 5,000 Kwacha (or about 20 cents to a dollar).

Biking past the road side market

Just last week I brought my own bicycle to Chipata and decided to bike out to Chinjala to meet an agro-agent I’m working with. When I was heading out alone I began to notice different things. I saw how much bicycle traffic there actually was. I was  trying to dodge bicycles speeding up to beat the robots (traffic lights). I was also dodging bicycles who were slowing down to drop people off at the road-side market. A taxi driver told me that this is a fairly new phenomenon. “These bicycle taxis, I don’t know where these people come from, but they started about 5 years ago.”

Avoiding bicycles, traffic and pedestrians. I understand taking a photo while doing the above is dangerous :)

There is a fairly good infrastructure here to support bicycles. Everywhere in town were dozens of little shops (4 wooden poles and a thatched roof) with tools and pumps to bring your bicycle back into shape. Out in the rural areas there were still shops along the dirt road the entire way. When my handle bars became lose and practically fell off, I was also able to veer into a farmer’s plot and ask him for help since every farmer has the tools (and hospitality) to fix a bicycle in need.

Repairing a Bicycle in Chinjala (20km West of Chipata)

The popularity of bicycles here in Chipata and the Eastern regions of Zambia are a stark contrast to other places in Zambia.  Bicycles lose their popularity the further West and closer to Lusaka I travel.

I feel that a few things that facilitated this market are related to:

  • Infrastructure
  • Access
  • Culture
  • Proximity to markets
  • And a niche customer need

Infrastructure:

Some roads here are paved, and the majority have wide shoulders that a bicycle can easily turn into to avoid the large trucks and fast cars that drive by. Rural areas are also have some hard gravel and dirt roads that are passable by bicycle and difficult for vehicles.

Access:

Bicycles in Chipata are cheap. With one glance you can see that there is one bicycle that has the dominant market share: Eagle. These are about ZK500,000 and are supplied by the large Eagle bicycle factory here in Chipata. Almost every store has one on sale.

Their popularity has set the standard of bicycle parts and knowledge in the entire district. The design is simple and can be repaired easily by anyone. Parts can be found in almost every hub in the district. Tools to repair bicycles are within a walk away from everyone’s home.

Culture:

Bicycle taxis are accepted as a cultural norm here. It’s passed the tipping point where it’s almost strange not to hop on a bicycle taxi when they’re so available and so cost effective. However, if I was approached by a bicycle taxi in Lusaka, I would be incredibly suspicious of this person and wondering if he was out of his mind.

I feel that the familiarity of the bicycle culture can attribute to the spread of their popularity geographically. I hear (but haven’t confirmed) that the use of bicycle taxis began in Malawi and is spreading Westward.

Proximity to Markets:

Outward from Chipata, you can reach many town hubs with only about 50km of bicycling. In Kalanje, which is 50km West of Chipata, people can be seen bicycling all the way to the Malawian border, which is an additional 15km East of Chipata, to import goods. There is a large variety of markets that are close enough to be accessible by bicycle making bicycle based trade very attractive.

Customer Demand:

Everyone in Chipata needs cheap modes of transportation. Bicycles can get anywhere and without the hassle of fuel and licensing fees. With a lack of mini-buses and affordable “on demand” local transport, bicycles serve many people’s needs.

For bicycle taxie, I believe the same factors apply. When using mini-buses for local transportation, their availability is far too sporadic. When using regular taxis, the cost becomes to high. Additionally, these taxis are attractive  because to purchase a bicycle can be a hassle. After paying the ZK 500,000 it has to be stored and protected from theft and it also has to be maintained.

Bicycle taxis provide a hassle free and cheap mode of local transportation. This fits with what I’ve been told about the whole market: that Malawi was the source of this business. It fits because the cost to hire a regular taxi is much higher and overall poverty is more prevalent in Malawi.

Racing West down the dirt road towards Chinjala on my Zambike

Bicycles are Just Awesome:

Bicycles are an affordable, culturally accepted, and versatile mode of transportation. The infrastructure and the amount of people who are now making a living using bicycles and others who are making a living supporting their needs is pretty amazing. All people are benefiting from this: the small scale remote farmer has independent access to far more services and markets than ever before, people who live in town have access to affordable transit, others have more opportunities to generate income through providing bicycle services, even others have more opportunities buying from and selling to a larger market, and everyone has a little bit of a break from breathing the exhaust of vehicles that would fail any emissions test back home. I’m pretty excited to see how this whole market and industry grows over the next few years in Zambia.

Pictures: Katete

After Chipata, we stayed in Katete for two nights so we can attend the Chewa Festival nearby.

Entrance to the town of Katete

KateteEdgeOfTown

Panoramic

Katete Market

KateteMarket

Looking for tomatoes and green pepper

Map


View Larger Map

Village Stay – By the Numbers

Off to Pemba

It was Friday Morning, 5:30 am (local time). We needed to catch a bus that was leaving that would bring me to Pemba. Pemba is about 3 hours outside of Lusaka. I was tired, my things were packed and Joanne and I made it to the inter-city bus terminal. In no-time we arrived in Pemba, and I was off the bus alone.

Sitting at the corner waiting for Mr. Muzuma, it was fun to try to attempt saying “Muli Buti (how are you?)” to some people gathered beside me. They had no idea what I was saying, but they found it amusing. I had no pictures of my first few minutes because, quite frankly, I was scared. I just got off a bus hours away from the capital, and now hours away from any other EWB member. All that changed in a matter of minutes.

Mr. Silas Siamakoli Muzuma

After waiting on a chair that someone invited me to sit on, Mr. Muzuma came biking and greeted me and everyone else. He is the headman of his village. At the age of 72, he is still very sharp, and very fit. I would always struggle to keep up with him biking or walking long distances.

MrMuzumaAndKids

Mr. Muzuma is also the leader of a cooperative of 20 farmers, who have been working closely with IDE. IDE’s motto: Fighting rural poverty through profit.

Learning the numbers

Mr. Muzuma showed me around his vegetable garden. Vegetable planting is a new initiative that is being encouraged by NGO’s in the area due to their potential profitability.

MrMuzumasGarden

I’ll highlight two crops that he planted, cabbage and tomatoes.

Cabbage

He had 124 cabbage in 8 beds.

1 Head can sell for 1000 Kwatcha

So if he had perfect yield that is well managed he could generate 124,000 Kwatcha.

This income could be repeated about 3 times a year if you have access to water.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes were an impressive story… he ran the numbers

Production: 92 tomato plants,

Output: If maintained properly, 1 plant gives 100 fruits

Plants 92
Fruit per plant 100
Fruit per Heap 10
Unit Price for Heap 1000 Kwatcha
Max Realizable Profit
(no Loss)
920000 Kwatcha
Max Realizable Profit
(expect 50% loss)
460000 Kwatcha

He said “there is money in vegetables. The problem is the marketing, transport and knowledge. Africa is very rich in land.”

What shocked me was… You expect 50% loss on all your outputs! That was part of his business plan!

Here was a small scale farmer who has all the tools, and ability to maximize his production. Whatever was in his control, he was able to translate into a better harvest. The optimization of his land coverage, the use of irrigation, understanding what crops required what fertilizer, composting his animal waste and reusing it for his farms. He understood the chemistry and the finances involved and was using that knowledge to maximize what he could do.

But his major challenge is accessing markets. He mentioned many times “we are still struggling”. From his farm and many others in his village, getting to the town center of Pemba is a good hour long walk, or a good 30 minute bike ride. Even with those options, there are huge limits to how much produce you can carry per trip.

Spreading Skills

On the last day, Mr. Muzuma spoke to me about the capacity of the farmers of his village. He showed me his books.

RecordKeeping

He has been tracking his daily work in the fields, and his finances going in and out. He follows trends and adjusts his strategy. “In the village everyone should know what they are doing…With records you can find you are [spending] too much, then you can adjust so you can increase your profit”.

I asked him if all the other farmers do the same. “No, very few do, only 3-4 in my group do” was his answer. “People do not want to change, it is the natural capacity”. However, he also told me that he and others in his village constantly encourage other farmers to keep records so they can properly track and plan out their farm and business. “Every year if 1 or 2 farmers change that is OK, bit-by-bit. Go to those willing to change.”

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